懒的成语开头?澜的成语开头!


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王端

买上几斤猪肉或鸡肉,炖上一锅,汤中放上煮熟剥皮的鸡蛋,慢慢熬,两个来小时,连肉带汁的一锅美味就做成了。

这操作,不难。但其中的一些说法,都会说,要用文字记录下来,大多数人却一筹莫展,查遍《现代汉语词典》也没个踪影。有人就认为是有音无字的方言,随便找个同音字代替,也不管牛头不对马嘴。

炖肉前, 猪肉肥的与瘦的,须分开切成块状。若不用凉水浸泡去除血水,或拿开水焯,有人就直接先把肥肉放进锅中,小火煏出部分油脂,翻炒,再放入瘦肉,一块翻炒。此时,锅中不放一滴水,液体就是肉中的水分和脂肪。噼噼啪啪,嘁里喀喳,声音响亮。若是注水肉,在水分未干以前,类似于煮,声音小。也不是油多肉少的过油肉;或细丝、薄片,用猛火的炒肉;更不是油很少,薄薄铺上一层,慢火的煎肉。此时,油不是很多。太多,炖出的肉会腻口;太少,瘦肉会粘到锅壁。较好的是油能裹住肉的表面,与肉中渗出的水,相互作用,才有噼噼啪啪的效果。 这一过程,叫“lan(二声)肉”。陕西著名的“烂臊子面”,其实就是把肉臊子反复“lan”出来的。这个字,在南朝梁时出版的《玉篇》中即有:“燣”。此字有三个意思,一,焦黄色;二,炒;三,热。生肉没加工时,是粉(紫)红色,焯完水后,偏白。燣后,尤其是肥肉,就呈黄色(焦黄色有点过了,炖出来的肉发柴,不好吃)。燣得差不多了,葱姜蒜料酒酱油醋配上各种香料,再翻炒一阵,到入开水,没过肉块,文火开炖。

大同人有个偏好,此时往往会煮好鸡蛋,去壳,于蛋白上划上几道小口,放入肉汤中慢炖,以充分吸收肉味。这个过程叫“卤fou(三声)鸡蛋”。为丰富味道和口感,茶叶水煮出来的叫茶蛋,卤汁煮出来的叫卤蛋。蒸煮的过程,叫“fou”,写作“缹”,异体字也可作“炰”,但这字又读“pao(二声)”,有点分心,不如“缹”专一。缹,从火,缶声,缶又可表蒸煮的容器,完美说明“蒸煮”的含义。

炖好肉,连汤带肉吃,来劲。大同人把这种肉汤叫“yan(二声)水”,对应的字应是“爓水”。爓,读“yan(四声)”,与“焰”通。读“xun(二声)”,与“燖”通,一指祭祀时把肉放在滚开的水中使半熟,也泛指煮肉;一指把已宰杀的猪、鸡等用滚水烫后去毛。古书中,“沉肉于汤中”,作“爚”,或作“瀹”,读“yue(四声)”,读音对不上。郑玄注《礼记》,说“汤肉曰爓”,照正常的读法,“爓”同于“燖”,应读“xun(二声”。但在大同话中,就读“yan(二声)”。

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