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[腕表之家 腕表说]大家好,今天是大年初二,我首先在这里给大家拜年啦!恭祝大家阖家欢乐,万事如意,兔年更上一层楼!如今,生肖表可以说是各大钟表品牌每年的保留节目,下面就让我们一起来看一下他们是如何诠释兔年手表的!
宝珀自2012年推出首款中华年历表开始,到今天已经是第11个年头了。宝珀的中华年历表不仅是世界上首款农历表,也是唯一一款可以轮流出现12个生肖的表。今年的2023农历兔年生肖表,摆陀装饰为两只浮雕小兔和“癸卯”年标志。这两只栩栩如生的小兔采用了宝珀的引以为傲的金属微雕技艺,为了将这种技艺的美发扬光大,宝珀特别设立了专门的雕刻工坊。
相较制表师的严谨,雕刻师则还要加一个更字,因为一旦出错,几乎没有弥补的机会。雕刻技师必须心平气和,并且始终保持这种状态,由于是手工雕刻,人的状态会直接影响作品的呈现,也正是雕刻师们的全身心投入,我们才得以看到“兔子”身上那纤毫毕现的兔毛。和往年一样,表壳为铂金材质,限量50枚。
江诗丹顿今年的艺术大师系列兔年跳时表,依然沿用珐琅和金雕工艺,表壳提供铂金和玫瑰金两种材质,金兔周围的莲花图案以中国传统剪纸纹样为灵感,不同层次的浮雕营造出莲花与荷叶的悬浮效果,表盘中央的金兔借鉴了明代祭月仪式中出现的捣药玉兔形象,金兔眼神机敏,体型矫健有力,致密的兔毛逼真灵动。这款表两种材质各限量9只,且仅限江诗丹顿专卖店发售。
相较于宝玑前几年的鼠、牛、虎生肖表,今年选择将生肖兔放在了女表上,通过巧妙融合手工雕刻与珐琅工艺,在表盘上呈现了6只活泼可爱的玉兔,它们形态各异,憨态可掬,有的在奔跑,有的在仰望,还有的在休息,这6只玉兔与祥云、和剪纸风格花朵、竹子一起都是先由雕刻师在18K白金底座上手工雕刻而成,之后再由珐琅工匠涂上釉料,送入800°高温的窑炉中烧制定型,为了让玉兔身体的纯白色珐琅一尘不染,且半透明的蓝色珐琅背景略浅于玉兔轮廓突出层次感,最终经过反复数次烧制才得以完美呈现。也正是因为制作过程极为艰辛,所以全球仅有8只。
掐丝珐琅向来都是伯爵的长项,尤其今年的这款Altiplano系列兔年手表,正好是伯爵的第12枚珐琅工艺生肖主题表,一套历经12年,终于算是有了一个阶段性总结。表盘上的两只掐丝珐琅小白兔优雅娴静,能有如此神韵,自然还是由瑞士最著名的珐琅大师 Anita Porchet女士亲自操刀进行手工制作,制作时,先用纤细金丝勾勒出小白兔的身体轮廓,之后再用黑、白、灰三种颜色的珐琅釉料描绘出不同位置的光影明暗,最后放入820至850度的窑炉中进行多次烧制定型,最终整个表盘呈现出了宛如水粉画的恬静自然。这款表限量38只,尽管数量相对较多,但要买到还得看缘分。
相较于珐琅和雕刻,萧邦更喜欢用莳绘工艺来表达生肖主题,今年的这款L.U.C XP 系列兔年莳绘表,生动的塑造了两只野兔奔跑嬉戏的画面。这款莳绘工艺的表盘依然邀请了日本山田平安堂工坊的漆艺大师小泉三教手工制作。莳绘是一项历史悠久的日本传统工艺,需要从漆树的树脂中萃取生漆原料,然后混入金、银、色粉、珍珠母贝等材料,呈现缤纷的色彩,所有图案均采用特制毛笔手工绘制,尤其是表盘上特别装饰的一层金粉,让整幅画面都仿佛笼罩在柔和的月光之下,而珍珠母贝制作的流云,瞬间让这幅画面流动了起来。这款表采用玫瑰金表壳,直径39.5毫米,厚度仅为6.8毫米,限量88只。
以上就是我对兔年手表的一些见解,大家对这些表有什么想说的,欢迎留言告诉我们,腕表之家,只为爱表的你,我们下期节目再见!(图/文 腕表之家 思时)
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