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文|南破青丝蛊
编辑|南破青丝蛊
前言
茶叶是我们国家的发源地，清朝之前的茶叶制作技术也是全球领先的。自秦汉起，农业文献中关于茶叶的用具就已有论述，《良耜》郑氏说：“用犁锄除荼叶”，这应当是第一次有关于茶叶和农业器具的文献记录。
《茶经》是唐代“茶圣”陆羽所著，不仅是人类有史以来最早的一本茶叶著作，同时也是中国最早对茶叶制作方法进行总结农业著作。
陆羽的《茶经》中记载了唐朝的蒸制方法，但是唐人更多地饮用的是蒸制的绿茶，而蒸制的茶叶则是在宋朝才开始流行起来，到了宋朝，再到宋朝，才有了蒸青茶（草茶和末茶）。
蒸青茶
但有关宋朝蒸青的制作器具，在历史文献中却没有特别的记录，仅在元朝《王祯农书》中提到过“水转连磨”。
现代茶道的研究多侧重于唐代到宋、元两朝的茶叶制作工艺，并未对特定的茶叶制作器具进行探讨。
本文以《王祯农书》《农器图谱》为主体，并以宋代农书、方志、诗词、小说等有关茶叶的有关材料为参照，从技术历史角度，对宋代茶叶生产的器具、特征进行了详尽的考察，并试图对其发展的成因进行了深入的探讨。
一、茶叶采选用具
宋代把采茶称为“摘山”，而在采摘过程中所用的器具也大体上是一样的。
宋人的诗歌中，有很多关于采茶时用来装茶的器具，如：籯、筐、篮、筥等：苏轼《寄周安孺茶》：“闻道晨春时，带着一杯酒去晨曦”；“竹枝绿树下，竹篮夕照”，徐铉《和门下殷侍郎新茶二十韵》；曾巩的《茗圃分篮摘夜露》《南源庄》；
宋庠的《新年谢故人惠建茗》：“英春筥（圆篮），珍串刻闽之作。《王祯农书》中所述的茶叶收纳器具，除了上述诸类之外，还有一种从未在宋代出现的笸箕。该器具为盛器、竹器，最适宜盛装新鲜茶叶，并能除去污垢。
另外，在宋朝，也出现了具有独特特色的采茶器具。首先，用瓢、罐等饮具保存新鲜的茶叶，以保持茶叶的新鲜。
五代前蜀国毛文锡的《茶谱》中有这样的话：“每次上山，取一种新的茶苗，先放在嘴里，再放入壶内，以使之充气。”《王祯农书》中也提到过勺子，但它“是用来喝水的，与勺子是一样的。”《王祯农书》中也有这样的说法，但它是“用来喝水的，与葫的杯子是搭配的。”
毛文锡所说的葫芦中，有一个“窍”，与葫芦一般，并不是分开的，而是用来装水的器皿。壶是一种陶瓷，也是第一次有记录用来制作茶叶的器具。
其次，则是银镊子和金刀，可以用来摘茶叶。采茶是宋代先民为了改善茶的质量而开创的先河。
宋代赵汝砺在《北苑别录》中对茶的品质和品质作了较好的总结，强调白茶、水芽，剔除白叶和乌蒂。
沈括曾经说过，新芽一旦发芽，就会变得更大，更细，更好。”由此可见，北宋以来，有见识的人就已认定，清汤清汤的原汁性较好，亦即：“以雀舌、鸟嘴为珍品，若以一尺之长短，其芽亦大，实非上乘。”
《王祯农书》中说：“此茶之好，根茎好，嫩叶初起，即有一尺多，细若针尖，斯为极品。如雀舌、麦粒等，都是劣质材料。”
在南宋后期，蒙古宰相耶律楚材在《西域从王君玉乞茶因其韵七首其四》中提到了金刀，玉杵与云舂素月，金刀子下落下的黄芽儿。
宋代，清茶渐成风气，《吃茶养生记》中提及的茶叶芽长达到了采摘要求，用银钳金刃采摘茶叶，不但显示出了茶叶器具的进步，而且也显示出了不同的金属农具，茶叶的材料也有了很大的进步。
另外，《吃茶养生记》中也记载了一种名为“竹剪”的采摘器具。《吃茶养生记》中没有任何有关的记载，但是美国学者威廉·乌克斯在《茶叶全书》中就提到过，“用一桶灰烬和一把竹剑，摆在灶台附近，用竹片把它切成很好看的样子。”
这就表明，日本人确实有用竹子制作刀具的习惯。日本茶艺起源于中国的“径山茶宴”，因此可以推断出宋朝曾使用过竹子来采茶。
二、蒸煮茶叶时使用的器具
宋代的茶叶生产技术由宋代的“蒸青片”逐步发展到元代的“蒸青散茶”。蒸青片茶的生产工艺是“蒸、榨茶、研茶、造茶、过黄”。“先将茶叶四次洗净，放于釜中，待煮熟，方可煮。”《王祯农书》：
“甑，炊器也。集韵云，甑，甗也。赞云:日用炊爨，甑也为先，窐作一空，底或七穿。编箄为隔，窐带周缠，覆盆莫照，跨釜能专。诗云:甑或乏七穿，编竹以为箄，有缘。取象圆，无底此能蔽。巧偷蛛网功，深为饼饵计。”
可见，宋代的甑多为竹子，但其最大特色就在于没有底部或七个孔洞，这与建茶所要出的油相吻合。
茶煮后叫“茶黄”，是指“盖茶之香而浓，若不挤压，就无法完全除去“茶中之汁”，而“膏”则色味浊”，从而会对茶汤质量产生不利的作用。于是便开始了榨汁的程序，也就是“放入小压榨，洗净水分，再放大压榨。
用马碾碎的水芽，因其幼苗而得名。《说郛》中的“高”字为“高”。先用麻布包裹，用竹子包裹，再用大的碾子碾碎，到了半夜，再拿出来，再按一次，即为碾子。彻晓奋的攻击，一定要一劳永逸。”
由此可以看出，在榨茶过程中，存在着三种不同的生产方法：榨（大榨、小榨、马榨、高榨）、布帛和竹子等。布匹和竹子都好懂，都是用来做过滤器的，比较简单。压榨的详细方法无法考证，但《王祯农书》中有一篇关于压榨的描述，大致可以看出压榨的大致模样：
油榨，取油具也。用坚大四木，各围可五尺，长可丈余，叠作卧枋于地，其上作槽，其下用厚板嵌作底盘，盘上圆凿小沟，下通槽口，以备注油于器。凡欲造油，先用大镬爨炒芝麻，既熟，即用碓舂或辗碾令烂，上甑蒸过;理草为衣，贮之圈内，累积在槽，横用枋桯相拶;复竖插长楔，高处举碓或椎击，擗之极紧，则油从槽出。此横榨，谓之“卧槽”;立木为之者谓之“立槽”，傍用击楔，或上用压樑，得油甚速。
在制茶完毕后，再进行研磨，但不像宋人喝茶时那样碾磨成粉，而是将茶叶磨成浆液。宋代的茶叶讲究“研膏惟热”，“研茶器，用柯作杵，用瓦作盆子。”《考工记》中说：“一石有一半，就是柯木。注释：砍柴的柯树，有三寸之长。
《鲁人》中有一句话：“齐人用的是一把刀。”《王祯农书》中说：“古陶，田人用来盛装酒的器具也。周礼曰：“盆有二尺，宽二尺，嘴唇一尺，取泥而成，故可盛食。”
宋人对茶叶的研磨有很高的讲究，所以才会使用石磨和石磨，北宋年间，水磨被用于宋代，“宋元丰年，汴河堤坝上建有数百个茶磨，宋元四年，河南长葛建了两百多个磨磨，从元丰年间开始，一直到近畿一带，昨天才开始推广。”《王祯农书》中也提到了一种更加有效的“水磨”：
畿，昨乃分配诸路。”《王祯农书》也记载了更为高效的水转连磨:水磨，凡欲置此磨，必当选择用水地所，先作并(傍)岸擗水激轮，或别引沟渠，掘地栈木，栈上置磨，以轴转磨，中下彻栈底，就作卧轮，以水激之，磨随轮转，比之陆磨，功力数倍。水转连磨，其制与陆转连磨不同，此磨须用急流大水，以凑水轮。其轮高阔，轮轴围至合抱，长则随宜，中列三轮，各打大磨一盘。磨之周匝俱列木齿，磨在轴上，阁以板木，磨旁留一狭空，透出轮辐，以打上磨木齿。此磨既转，其齿复旁打带齿二磨，则三轮之力，互拨九磨。其轴首一轮，既上打磨齿，复下打碓轴，可兼数碓……尝到江西等处，见此制度，俱系茶磨，所兼碓具，用捣茶叶，然后上磨。
宋代释心月在《水茶磨》中有一首有关水磨机的诗：“一眼望去，苦中作乐。车马随波逐流，旁观者清，双目似眉。”陈椽则把“水轮”作为压片的重要手段，其功能和目前的水力捻技术是一致的。
磨完后，再放进模具，再将茶叶染黄，也就是“入圈、笪、（作者注：一种由粗细的竹子织成的席子）。”
宋代蔡襄在《北苑十咏·造茶》中总结道：“碎玉在地底，在新的范中，一种新的茶叶。月亮圆润，龙卷风动。宋人用竹、铜、银等材料做成的模具，有圆的、方的、菱形的。通常竹子上都没有龙、凤的纹路，只有在茶叶上才刻上龙、凤的纹路。但在制作的时候，也要讲究温度。“
这是一种用嫩芽和叶子做成的模具，然后用火烘烤。用灰烬包裹，在里面，以泄火。但茶人不爱用木炭，又称“冷火”，用新茶时，要迅速干燥，才能卖出，所以用火时，往往会有火焰。火势大易伤茶叶。面红耳赤，气息灼热，这是一种烧坏了的病症。”
这时，最有特色的是宋代最有特色的一种制茶器具，包括甑、榨、帛、皮、柯、盆、磨、模、子等9种茶叶。
另外，在宋代和元朝，蒸青散茶的生产技术也有很大的影响，并在元朝流行。《王祯农书》中记载了一种清茶的制作方法：“取之，用蒸馏器蒸馏，煮至熟时（生者，其味道为苦，而熟者为食）。
蒸好后，用竹片铺在上面，用湿气轻轻搓一搓，放在烤架上，用火烤至干燥，切不可烤糊。”鲁明善的《农桑衣食撮要》中，有这样的描述：“采茶，稍蒸，颜色稍有变化，然后展开，一般用手揉，再以箬叶烘烤。”其制作方法与自明清到近代的蒸煮工艺大同小异。
可以看出，在宋、元两代，蒸青的器皿以甑和箬器（类似于笪）为主，与蒸青的制茶方法比较，省去了榨茶、研茶、造茶的工序，而采用手工揉搓、用竹箬烘茶，看起来比较简单。
三、茶叶的包装和贮藏设备
(一)茶具的包装
《北苑别录》中有一篇关于北苑五纲茶的描述：“用黄斗围，用扁担包裹，用花盒包裹，用重锏保护，用银钥匙。这盒子里里外外都是黄罗幕，当真是稀世珍宝。”
在《武林旧事》中，南宋时期的《北苑》中有这样的记录：“御用黄罗软袍，籍以青丝，用黄色的丝线包裹，臣子用红色的印章，外面用金色的小盒子装着金色的门闩。可见，那时的茶叶包装用的工具非常精致，但只有极少数的贡茶能有。
一般来说，宋朝的茶叶制作完成后，都会用一片树叶包裹起来，用红色的丝线包裹，用来保护茶叶。
荷叶包茶是宋朝特有的茶叶包装术，欧阳修在《尝新茶呈圣俞》中所作的“荷叶包书”、苏轼《焦千之求惠山泉诗》中的“旧人爱我，旧茶送新茶”，都是用荷叶来包茶的。
盒子有方形和盒子，而茶笼是用竹子做成的盒子，在诗歌中，有书橱、茗壶、茗壶、漆橱、妆奁等等。两种类型相似，均为高圆柱体（古代妇女用的化妆箱）；书柜、茗柜、漆柜、匣子都是方形的。
除了茶笼和茗壶，还有一些是用来制作茶叶的，还有一些是用来制作黄金和白银的，比如衢州的铁壶，就是最有名的铁匠，“衢州的开化山偏僻，民风彪悍，但茶笼和铁锁却是最好的。”
辽墓出土的《进茶图》所绘的方匣子，显然属于中原的器形，与其它茶具放在一张桌子上，可能是存放茶叶的地方。
(二)贮藏茶叶的用具
由于片茶在挤压过程中具有较强的耐受性，因此，在北宋的贮藏中，主要是为了防止潮湿和潮湿。“在北宋初期，有一位收藏者，将柳叶包在烘烤的过程中，每隔三天就会用一次，就像是人的身体一样，保持潮湿。
这表明，宋代的人们不但用它来包装茶叶，还用它来隔绝水分。到了元朝，人们就用箬竹来制作茶叶，“江西人把它的叶子叫做茶叶，因为它不会有邪恶的气息，所以它才是真正的珍贵。”《王祯农书》中，尤有记载：“以竹制烘，以包箬盖之，以收火气，茶性畏湿，故宜箬,收藏者必以箬笼、剪箬杂贮之，则久而不想象，宜置顿高处，使其常靠近火中。”
从防潮到防臭，到明朝，箬笼仍然是用来存放茶叶的器具，比如明朝的“建城”茶器就是藏茶箬笼。
明朝屠隆在《茶笺·藏茶》中亦有记录，若将箬叶与大肚小嘴的花盆连在一处，则以“盛之时，以箬叶盖之，一斗一斗，用箬二两，用一尺八的纸烘烘而成，大约六七重。”
这是宋元时期的做法，明王朝也是如此，而且明人也渐渐认识到了，不要把它的叶子放得过多，以免影响了茶汤的口感：“这瓶子里最好不要用太多的绿萝，因为它会破坏茶汤的香气。抢一杯好茶。”
另外，就像前面提到的“封裹入焙”一样，在存放茶叶时，最常用的工具就是茶焙制。《大观茶论》中也有这样的说法：“藏煎，以蒸数烤，其头干而香消，若不烤，其颜色多，其味也会散开。”在《茶具图赞》中，茶叶烘烤用的是芦苇。
四、结语
综上所述，宋代清茶的生产技术在宋代已比较完善。宋代以蒸青片为主，这是由于宫廷的需求，宋代到元朝，蒸青散茶盛行，这是由于时代的变化，以及人们对茶叶天然的品味的要求。
两者的生产工艺大同小异，但因为建茶味道浓郁，所以茶叶以压榨、研而流传，而散茶则简化为简化，以求真正的味道，两者的关系是一种延续，一种改良，对后来乃至全世界的蒸青技术都有很大的影响。
随着宋代茶叶技术的变革，茶叶生产技术的发展，产生了较大的社会经济和社会的影响。在经济方面，宋元两朝的农业生产方式发生了重大的变革，实行“不立田制”，让农民可以自行耕种，这不但促使了大批的耕地垦殖，而且增加了农民的数量，使得茶园的管理更为合理，宋朝的茶叶经济前所未有繁荣，茶叶生产得到迅速有效的发展。
而宋元时代的“钢刃”熟铁器普及，铸钢工艺成了宋朝的主流冶炼方式，而炒钢工艺、农具铸造技术也有所提高，极大地推动了农业的发展，并推动了茶叶的制作技术的改进。从文化角度来看，宋、元两代有关茶的著述甚多，而且各具特色，如《东溪试茶录》；
《北苑别录》中有关于制茶的记载；如《茶录》、《大观茶论》、《茶具图赞》等饮茶之道。尤其是《王祯农书》一卷，记载了二百余种农具的描述，其中自然还包含了制作茶叶的器具。
与此同时，宋代文人品茗的新风尚、“点茶”的产生、流传到国外的“径山茶宴”等都有着重要的意义，茶诗、茶词、茶曲也是丰富多彩的。
在社会上也有许多与茶有关的风俗和思想，例如：“茶来”、“茶之礼”、“饮茶”等，“茶”和“养茶”的思想，不仅使宋、元人民的日常饮食得到了丰富，而且对宋代茶叶的生产、制茶技术和制茶器具的发展起到了很大的推动作用。
参考文献：
赵希鹄:《调燮类编》卷2
王祯著、王毓瑚校:《王祯农书》
赵佶:《大观茶论》
黄儒:《品茶要录》
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《兰亭序》（神龙本）中写有两个揽字的部分 南宋刻递修本《陶渊明集》中，有“枝条始欲茂”句的一页 洮河绿石兰亭砚 文徵明绘兰亭图（局部） 王羲之所作《兰亭序》，无论是文章，还是书法，…
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风华流沙的男孩名字 南轩 南轩有孤松，柯叶自绵幂。——李白《南轩松》 景尚 新亭风景尚依然——叶梦得《虞美人?赠蔡子因》 献琛 憬彼淮夷，来献其琛——《诗经》
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霸气又聚财的公司名称 – 打造财富帝国 在商业世界中，一个霸气又聚财的公司名称是建立品牌的第一步。一个好的公司名称不仅能够吸引客户，而且能够塑造公司形象，增加品牌价值。…
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