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那是20世纪80年代末，我在浙江玉环教育局教研室任中学语文教研员。大概是11月下旬吧，台州地区教育局教研室组织辖区内相关学科的教研员到大陈岛中学作语文课堂教学调研。我们一行十几人，先在椒江过了一夜，第二天一早，坐了一个多小时的柴油机轮船，才上了岛。
那时，大陈岛中学的会议室相当简陋，半个教室那么大，中间一张旧长条桌，桌面油漆斑驳，两边十来张国字形方凳。我们十几个人坐下后没几分钟，一位三十来岁的男子，端着一只浅底敞口大箩筐，直接放在会议桌上。我伸头一看，大半箩煮熟的虾狗弹（温州台州一带的方言词，指虾蛄），至少有二十斤吧。这虾狗弹，都赤中带褐，一只只蜷缩着，有的勾连着，拉直的话，每一只都在10到15厘米。分明是刚煮的，放在桌上，腾腾地冲着热气和腥味。我是萧山人，调到玉环工作时间不长，对海岛上人们的生活习惯与风俗，还没有多少概念。这虾狗弹，玉环的菜场上也有，价格还比较便宜，一角多一斤，但我从来没有买过，因为吃起来太麻烦，稍不留心，嘴唇就会被戳破。端出这么一大箩筐干什么？我有点莫名其妙，朝坐在旁边的温岭教研员瞟了一眼。他立刻会意，说：叫你吃呀！吃？我更加奇怪了：早饭不是已经吃了，中饭时间还远着呐，现在还只有9点钟，难道是？正在疑惑时，校长进来了，一个黝黑的中年男子：来，来！老师们，随便剥剥。我们的总务主任刚刚从码头的船上拿来的，只只都活蹦乱跳。大陈岛上没有什么可招待，这虾狗弹有的是，来，趁热。说完，他自己先抓起一只动手剥了起来。我还没看清，不知他怎么鼓捣了两三下，一条带着红膏的虾肉就剥出来了，他捏住一端，在空中故意晃了几晃，意思分明是：还蛮壮实的哦！然后丢进了嘴。来，来，随便吃，消消闲吧。校长示范后，我终于明白：原来，这一筐虾狗弹是招待我们的零嘴，就好像到橘农家里做客时主人顺手采几个橘子要你品品，好像到瓜农的地头种瓜人随手摘几个瓜给你尝尝，好像我们杭州人用葵花子、南瓜子之类作零食……他们生活在海岛，虾狗弹是他们的特产，就以这虾狗弹作零嘴。于是，教研员们纷纷开始动手剥了。台州地区沿海的县区比较多，这里的人，吃起海鲜来，像蟹、螺、蛤蜊、带鱼等，样样都相当顺嘴；即使像天台、仙居等不临海的，也许是近水楼台，平时来往频繁，他们吃起海产品来也手脚麻利，特别是天台的那个教研员老张，吃这方面，真可谓手到擒来，炉火纯青。在座的教研员中，只有我对海岛新鲜而陌生，对海鲜，更是知之甚少。这虾狗弹的肉，虽略有腥味，可鲜美而醇厚，特别是那一块块结实的红虾膏，嚼起来的滋味，真有说不出的爽劲。可是我不会剥，人家剥了五六只了，我却一只也没剥完整，更可悲的是，手指肚还被刺破。瞧瞧别人的动作，好像也没有什么技巧，可他们三下五除二，一根相对完整的虾肉条就拉出来了。从头里剥起，三门县的教研员是个女的，她给我示范，可我试了几下还是不行；从尾巴上开始剥，温岭的教研员直接手把手教我，可我照着他的方式，还是弄得支离破碎；地区教研员老刘说，吃虾狗弹没有技巧的，就靠自己慢慢摸索，熟能生巧。我觉得刘老师的话有道理，实践出智慧。曾听说有些临安昌化的山民，一颗山核桃囫囵扔进嘴里，舌头上翻滚几下，壳吐出来了，仁咽下去了，神奇得让人发呆，还不是从小练出来的绝活？第二节上课铃响后，校长说，下面我向大家简要地介绍一下学校的基本情况，大家嘛，边吃边听。这对我而言，“边吃边听”的“吃”只好放弃了。左边的见我不吃，就悄悄剥出一条虾肉放到我面前；右边的看见了，也跟着剥出一条肉送给我，对面的笑笑，连着剥了三四条肉，一起扔到我的笔记本上……我尴尬地笑笑，摆摆手，示意大家别这样宠我。然而，大家仿佛统一过口径似的，一个个地轮流给我剥，一直到校长介绍完毕。中午吃饭时，桌子上摆满了各种海鲜，鲳鱼带鱼等自不必说，虾蟹蛏子蛤蜊也不必说，连跳鱼和望潮也各有一大盘。可我的肚子还实鼓鼓的，心有余而力不能足，我吃了几条跳鱼和一只望潮，就不敢吃了。饭后，老张劝我，你呀，必须学会吃虾狗弹，入乡随俗，哪有在海岛工作的人，连这个都不会吃的？调研结束时，校长说，送每个教研员一篮虾狗弹，因为他听到大家在说这里的特别好，一是肥硕，二是鲜美，但我们都婉言谢绝。明的理由是，不能给学校增加麻烦，暗的理由是，我们到达时，看到码头附近叫卖虾狗弹的很多，价格相当便宜，想带点回家的，不如自己出钱买，省得背上人情债。返回的这天早上，包括本人在内，每个人多多少少都买了。回到玉环后，我开始隔三岔五地买虾狗弹。一买就是四五斤，反正价格便宜。加些姜和酒，清水里一煮，马上可以吃，既可当下酒菜，也可作零嘴。一段时间下来，我剥壳的速度大为提高，半年后，几乎可以和海岛成年人相提并论。后来，也明白它为什么便宜的秘密，主因是小孩不宜吃，容易刺伤嘴唇。遗憾的是，几年后，我调回萧山，用了一年多时间练就的吃技，少无用武之地。萧山依湖傍江，可与海却距离有些遥远。平时的水产，以淡水鱼虾为主，海鲜是稀有品。宴席上，虾狗弹通常也会有，但平均到每个人的名下，不过一二只而已，哪能由着自己的嘴任性？不知道现在大陈岛的虾狗弹还多吗，个头还大吗，鲜美依旧吗？我真的想再去一次。由于平时吃虾狗弹的机会不多，尽管剥壳技艺肯定有些退化，但还是非常期待有一个复习巩固的机会。
栏目主编：孔令君 文字编辑：陈抒怡 题图来源：图虫 图片编辑：苏唯
来源：作者：朱华贤
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在充满不确定性的大环境中，无论是小店还是连锁门店，用心经营好味道，终将收获消费者的认可。 本文由红餐网（ID：hongcan18）原创首发，作者：语嫣。 近日，大众点评发布了202…
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未来已经来临，科技的进步已经深深地渗透到我们的日常生活中的各个角落。无论是智能手机、无人机、人工智能还是虚拟现实，科技正以前所未有的速度和激情改变着我们的世界。在这个科技潮流的浪潮…
